by Steve Albrecht, Sgt. (Ret.),
San Diego Police Reserves
One common part of this street scene starts when the officer crouches over the driver-side windshield and peers down into that wedge of dashboard and glass where the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) hides. A slew of 17 numbers appears on a small welded-on tag, and thereby starts the beginning and ending of identifying this car as legally registered, illegally owned, stolen, or anywhere in between.
It's easy to squat down and read the VIN from the car's doorframe, more difficult to view it on the dashboard. Dirty windows, sun-bleached dashboards, and the usual attempts by crooks to cover, alter, or disfigure the VIN tag can make it tough to guess if that squiggle is a "1," and "L," or a fossilized piece of McDonald's fries.
While the VIN numbers seem like Egyptian tomb markings, there is method to the madness. The VIN has always been a part of the modern automobile. Since 1981, the feds (specifically, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration), the automakers, and an exciting groups of folks from the Society of Automotive Engineers have helped us identify cars using the now-standard 17 numbers.
Here are some tips to help you know if the
MDT screen, pounds of DMV paperwork given to you by the driver, and your own
eyes are telling the same story:
The first three characters on the VIN are known as the "WMI" or
"World Manufacturer Identifier." Cars made in the U.S. should bear the
numbers 1,4, or 5. Canada uses 2, and Mexico 3. Germany uses W,
which you may see on a true German-made car. Not surprisingly, Japan uses
J and Korea uses K. The second and third characters may or may not tell you
the manufacturer: H for Honda, F for Ford, T for Toyota, N for Nissan, VW for
Volkswagen, etc.
Characters four through eight can tell you a lot of swell stuff if you read code. It's supposed to reveal the brand, body style, engine size, and engine type. It's hard to tell what most of these mean, so skip ahead. The ninth character is the manufacturer's security code. It corresponds to their factory numbers and supposedly helps you determine if the VIN is altered or fraudulent. Again, if you don't know this code, look to one of the most important characters, the tenth.
Number 10 tells you the model year of the car. No advanced training in cryptography is necessary here:
A=1980
B=1981
C=1982
D=1983
E=1984
F=1985
G=1986
H=1987
J=1988
K=1989
L=1990
M=1991
N=1992
P=1993
R=1994
S=1995
T=1996
V=1997
W=1998
X=1999
Y=2000
1=2001
2=2002
Note the absence of the letters I,O, Q, U, and Z, since these look too much like 1, 0, etc.
The eleventh character is for the manufacturer again; it tells them which plant built the car. The last six numbers denote the serial number for the car. Usually, it's the last four numbers are part of the shorthand we use in the field, with dispatchers, partners, etc. to verify the car's identity.
Keep in mind that this VIN system fits cars and light trucks; heavy-duty semis and commercial-use vehicles use a different system. Cheat-sheet this information for the next time you're poised over a windshield or door frame, pen in hand.
Steve Albrecht retired in November after 15 years with the San Diego Police Department, where he had worked as a fulltime officer, a reserve sergeant, and a Domestic Violence Unit investigator. He can be reached at www.officersafetybooks.com.